تولید و تعمیر پمپ گاز طبقاتی

تولید و تعمیر پمپ گاز طبقاتی

۰۲۱۶۶۷۹۱۷۷۵

۰۲۱۶۶۷۹۱۷۷۶

ما کیفیت، دقت و اطمینان را براساس تجربه طولانی مدت خود ارائه می دهیم تا راه حل های متناسب با شما را ارائه دهیم با معرفی طرح ها و فناوری های جدید رضایت شما را بیشتر کنیم.

  • تنوع تولید قطعات صنعت گاز مایع
  • تولیدکننده اندازه گیری سطح شناور و لوازم جانبی
  • سیم بازوهای بارگیری و تخلیه گاز مایه LPG
  • ذخیره سازی گاز مایع LPG، سیلندر پرکنی و اسپری پرکنی
  • پمپ های طبقاتی Side Channel Pump جهت جابجایی گاز مایع LPG
  • پر کردن سیلندر گاز مایع، تخلیه و بارگیری مخازن
  • ساخت و تعمیر انواع شیرآلات و پمپ های تخصصی گاز مایع (اینترنال‌ولو، شیر فلکه، درصدسنج، اکسس، چک‌ولو، بای‌پس، سوپاپ در سایزهای مختلف، پرکن و قطع کن گاز)
  • تعمیر و صافکاری تانکرهای گاز مایع آسیب دیده
  • ارسال به کلیه نقاط

مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ طبقاتی گاز و مایع

تعمیر پمپ طبقاتی گاز و مایعات

۰۲۱۶۶۷۹۱۷۷۵

۰۲۱۶۶۷۹۱۷۷۶

%مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر %مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر

مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ طبقاتی

در زمینه تعمیر پمپ طبقاتی نیاز است که ابتدا نگاهی گذرا به قطعات و اجزای تشکیل دهنه این پمپ داشته باشیم. در این راستا  توانایی و امکانات مورد نیاز برای تعمیر انواع پمپ طبقاتی اعم از تعمیر پمپ طبقاتی افقی (WKL)، تعمیر طبقاتی گرانفوس، تعمیر پمپ طبقاتی لوارا و غیره را دارا می باشد.

 

تعمیر پمپ طبقاتی

در حالت کلی و در شرایط ایجاد ایراد در ساختار پمپ های طبقاتی عمودی Multistage و طبقاتی افقی WKL معمولا واحدهای پروانه، دیفیوزر، بلبرینگ ها و مکانیکال سیل دچار خرابی و سایش می شود. عواملی مانند خشک کار کردن، ترازبندی نامناسب، زیر بار ماندن، استفاده از پمپ نامناسب برای سیال پمپاژ شونده و شوک های حرارتی و الکتریکی موجب خرابی در ساختار پمپ های طبقاتی می گردد.

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در این مرحله قصد داریم تا ایرادات و اشکلات متداولی که در روند کار پمپ های طبقاتی و در چند مرحله ایجاد می شود را مورد بررسی قرار دهیم.

  • پمپ صدای زیادی می دهد:
    • تراز بودن پمپ بررسی شود.
    • ورودی و خروجی پمپ را از نظر تمیز بودن و عدم گرفتگی بررسی شود.
    • بلبرینگ های الکتروموتور پمپ چک شوند.
    • طبقات پمپ و نحوه جایگذاری پروانه ها و دیفیوزرها بررسی شود. (بعد از پروسه تعمیر)
    • وضعیت کوپلینگ بررسی شود.

  • پمپ آب دهی لازم را ندارد:
    • پروانه و دیفیوزر ها بررسی شوند و در صورت ایجاد شکستگی و سایش تعویض گردند.
    • دور الکتروموتور و سیم پیچی آن از نظر سالم بودن به صورت بررسی چشمی و نیز سلامت بلبرینگ ها بررسی شود.
    • ورودی و خروجی پمپ را از نظر مسدود بودن و جرم گرفتگی بررسی شود.

  • پمپ لرزش زیادی دارد:
    • پمپ از لحاظ تراز بودن چک شود.
    • بلبرینگ های الکتروموتور و پمپ بررسی شوند.
    • لوله و اتصالات پمپ بررسی گردد (در صورت نیاز از لاستیک های لرزه گیر استفاده شود و فلنج بندی ها به صورت صحیح و با گشتاور مناسب سفت گردند.)
    • کوپلینگ پمپ چک شود.

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پمپ های طبقاتی به طور کلی به دلیل آنکه دارای چندین استیج (طبقه) می باشد بعد از مونتاژ اگر به نحو صحیح در کنار یکدیگر قرار نگیرند و پروانه هایی که روی شافت مرکزی سوار می شوند به طور دقیق و منظم کنار هم چیده نشوند، شافت دچار لقی شده و بلافاصله موجب فشار گریز از مرکز بر روی مکانیکال سیل شده و موجب نشتی و آبدهی و در بعضی از موارد گیرپاژ کل مجموعه پمپ طبقاتی می گردد.

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نکته بسیار مهمی که در رابطه با پمپ های طبقاتی و به خصوص طبقاتی عمودی و مولتی استیج مطرح می شود، این است که این پمپ ها صرفا برای پمپاژ آب تمیز و صاف مورد استفاده قرار می گیرند. در صورتی که آب ورودی به پمپ شامل ناخالصی و ذرات معلق باشد موجب آسیب به اجزای پمپ شده و ایراداتی همچون سایش در قطعات حیاتی پمپ، ایجاد ترک در دیفیوز ها و پروانه ها و در موارد نادر ایجاد گیرپاژ در ساختار پمپ شده که هزینه های مربوط به تعمیر پمپ های طبقاتی را افزایش می دهد.

طبق توضیحاتی که در بالا داده شد در زمینه نگهداری پمپ های طبقاتی می بایست موراد زیر را رعایت کرد:

  • هرگونه سر و صدای غیر عادی در ساختار پمپ و دمای الکتروموتور مدام بررسی شود.
  • پمپ از لحاظ نشتی و لوله و اتصالات پمپ چک شوند.
  • فشار آب خروجی پمپ با نصب فشار سنج در مسیر بررسی شود.
  • سلامت مکانیکال سیل و هرگونه نشتی بررسی گردیده و در صدد رفع نشتی برآیید (نشتی های جزیی و تر شدن شامل خرابی مکانیکال سیل نمی شود و بر اساس استاندارد موجود در کاتالوگ پمپ، این نوع نشتی می تواند مجاز باشد.).
  • زمان بازدید سیل مکانیکی پمپ هر سه ماه یکبار می باشد.

مواردی که در زمان دمونتاژ پمپ های طبقاتی (عمودی – افقی) در نظر گرفته شود به شرح زیر می باشد:

  • در زمان دمونتاژ پمپ باید اطمینان حاصل شود که پمپ تحت فشار نباشد. در صورتی که این موضوع رعایت نشود می تواند منجر به آسیب های جدی به شخص تعمیرکار گردد.
  • مجموعه پمپ و الکتروموتور از لحاظ وزنی بالا می باشد. برای جابجایی و حمل و نقل پمپ می بایست کلیه موراد ایمنی را رعایت شود تا از سقوط یا آسیب به افراد و خود پمپ جلوگیری شود.
  • در بعضی از موارد از پمپ های طبقاتی به منظور پمپاژ سیالات سمی و خورنده استفاده می شود. برای این منظور تعمیرکار موظف است تا مدارک فنی پروژه را بررسی نموده تا از آسیب های احتمالی وارده که در زمان دمونتاژ پمپ طبقاتی ممکن است رخ دهد، جلوگیری شود.
  • بعد از تعمیر و در زمان مونتاژ کردن پمپ های طبقاتی، لازم است که پوسته پمپ که یکی از حیاتی ترین و مهم ترین قطعات پمپ های طبقاتی عمودی می باشد مورد بررسی قرار گیرد. بررسی پوسته شامل دفرمگی، کج شدگی و سایش در سطح پوسته می باشد. سایش یا شیار ایجاد شده در پوسته پمپ طبقاتی نباید بیشتر ⅔ میلی متر باشد. در صورتی که از حد استاندارد تجاوز نمود باید نسبت به تعویض یا تعمیر پوسته اقدام نمود.
  • سطوح واشرها و محل تنظیم پوسته و نشیمنگاه آن باید عاری از هرگونه گرد و غبار و ناخالصی های محیطی باشد.

 

اجزای تشکیل دهنده پمپ طبقاتی عمودی به شرح زیر می باشد:

%مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر %مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر

  1. پوسته مکش
  2. پوسته طبقات
  3. رینگ داخلی
  4. بلوک محافظ پروانه
  5. پروانه
  6. رینگ متعادل کننده
  7. آستین متعادل کننده
  8. پوسته خروجی
  9. مکانیکال سیل
  10. پکینگ
  11. آستین شفت
  12. واشر آب بند
  13. یاتاقان
  14. خار نگهدارنده بیرینگ
  15. پوسته بیرینگ
  16. واشر اتصال
  17. کوپلینگ
  18. آستین بیرینگ ضد آب
  19. بیرینگ ضد آب
  20. آستین زیرین بیرینگ
  21. رینگ مهار کننده
  22. آستین رینگ مهار کننده
  23. پوسته دیفیوزر
  24. دیفیوزر
  25. رینگ آب بند پروانه
  26. پوسته خروجی دیفیوزر
  27. لوله برگشت
  28. گلند آب بند
  29. الکتروموتور

What is a Brake Booster?

What is a Brake Booster?

You know how a booster seat is like a booster…for your seat? Well, a brake booster is like a booster…for your brakes. Is your brain blown yet?

So here’s the skinny: Do “leg day” five days a week if you want, you’re still not strong enough to use the brakes on your car effectively. So, a booster is there to help you out, and provide the power to your brake pedal necessary to bring your car to a stop. Boosters are a key part of power braking systems. The brake booster creates extra force when you depress the brake pedal, and sends that force to the master cylinder and brake calipers, which apply the brake pads, which clamp down on the brake rotors, which slow your car down.

There are three primary types of brake boosters. The first type is called a vacuum booster. Vacuum boosters utilize vacuum power created by the engine to boost the braking ability of the car. The vacuum also contains a check valve. The check valve sucks out any unwanted air that might be trapped in the vehicle’s brake booster. Hydraulic boosters which are typically use power steering fluid for added pressure. And electrohydraulic boosters use brake fluid and an electric pump.

Vacuum Brake Booster

Vacuum Brake Booster

Brakes

Description

Located on the driver’s side of the car towards the back of the engine compartment, the vacuum-operated brake booster is the heart of a “power brake” system. The master cylinder mounts to the front of the brake booster.

Purpose

The brake booster uses the differential of engine vacuum (negative pressure) and atmospheric pressure (positive pressure) to multiply force from the driver’s leg. This applies increased force to the pushrod of the master cylinder, generating more pressure from the master cylinder than from use of the driver’s leg alone.

Maintenance Tips/Suggestions

Brake boosters are generally very reliable and require no maintenance. Some boosters have a small filter in the vacuum line supplying the booster. This filter should be replaced periodically to ensure a consistent flow of vacuum to the booster. It should be inspected regularly to make sure that its vacuum connection and hose are sound and that the connection grommet seals tightly around the vacuum connection. Symptoms of brake booster problems include excessive brake pedal effort, a rough running engine, excessive idle speed, or a whooshing or hissing noise. Have the symptom checked by a professional technician to pinpoint the cause.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve

Many vehicles employ a vacuum brake booster in order to provide additional power to the braking system. It’s designed to provide consistent flow of hydraulic brake fluid to the brake master cylinder while increasing brake pressure and helping heavy vehicles stop more easily. This component is common on a variety of consumer cars, trucks and SUVs. From time to time, the vacuum brake booster is susceptible to damage or typical wear and tear. This includes the brake booster check valve.

The check valve is designed to suck out air that is trapped in the brake booster without letting additional air enter the cylinder. This protects the brake lines from developing an air bubble which can seriously impact braking performance. This part connects the body of the brake booster to the vacuum hose and is a safety solution that still allows the brakes to work – even if the engine is shut off.

Typically the vacuum brake booster check valve is not inspected during routine maintenance, but there are times when this part can show signs of wearing out or that the booster check valve has failed entirely. Here are a few of those warning signs so you can determine if a potential problem with your vacuum brake booster check valve exists. Remember, these are common warning signs that should be professionally diagnosed by a certified mechanic and properly repaired.

۱٫ Brake pedal is difficult to engage

When the vacuum brake booster check valve is working correctly, applying pressure to the brake pedal is easy and very smooth. When the check valve is not working correctly, the operation of the brakes becomes much more difficult. Specifically, the pedal goes from smooth and soft to aggressive and very difficult to press down. This is due to the excess pressure inside the master cylinder, which the check valve is designed to regulate. The inconsistency of the brake pedal is a warning sign that a potential safety issue exists with the brakes and should immediately be inspected by a certified mechanic.

۲٫ Brakes feel spongy

As the problem with the vacuum brake booster check valve increases, air bubbles will progressively move down the brake lines and to the brakes themselves. In this case, the air that is supposed to be removed by the check valve enters the master cylinder and then into the brake lines. This causes a reduction of pressure inside the brake lines and can cause the brakes to be applied softly. While driving it will feel as if the brake pedal is spongy, however, the brakes will also take longer to stop the vehicle.

This situation calls for an immediate inspection of the brake system. When air enters the brake lines, it typically becomes trapped due to the fact that brakes are hydraulically controlled. In order to remove the air from the brake lines, the brake system will have to be bled. As such, when you experience a problem like this in your vehicle, stop driving it as soon as possible and have the entire brake system professionally examined.

۳٫ Brakes stop working

The worst-case scenario occurs when the vacuum brake booster check valve completely breaks and eventually leads to a brake system failure. Hopefully you never get to this point, but if you do, safely stop the car, have the vehicle towed back home and contact a mechanic who is certified with brake system inspections and replacement. Depending on what actually broke, the repairs can range from simple vacuum brake booster check valve replacement to complete brake system repair and replacement.

The vacuum brake booster check valve is important to your braking system, and acts as a safety feature. It’s due to these facts that the problems and symptoms above should not be ignored or put aside for another day. Contact a certified ASE mechanic to inspect, properly diagnose, and make appropriate service adjustments to your brakes.

Brake Booster Repair Kit – Some Buying Tips and Suggestions

Brake Booster Repair Kit – Some Buying Tips and Suggestions

The brakes can still be used when the brake booster fails. But, the braking power whenever you step on the brake pedal won’t be the same. It will take a longer distance for the vehicle to stop, and the brake pedal will be much harder to press. The power brakes won’t have as much power as it used to. A defective booster may be blamed on the lack of vacuum, a punctured broken diaphragm, or mechanical failure. Heat and pressure can cause this brake component to fail. Regular use can definitely take a toll on its health. Good thing is, the brake booster can still be restored to its good condition. All you need is a brake booster repair kit that typically comes with replacement boosters, bolts, nuts, seals, mounting hardware, and other parts. This kit isn’t really hard to come by. You just have to keep some reminders in mind to get the right one.

The size of the brake booster, number of diaphragms used, and other specs vary depending on the year, make, and model of the vehicle. For you to get the right repair set, you have to indicate the complete vehicle details to search for a kit with parts that match the kind of brake booster in your vehicle.

As you diagnose the booster problem, you have to find out the reason for its failure. It can be a cracked diaphragm, brake fluid leak from the master cylinder, lack of vacuum, or damaged parts. Once you figure out the real problem, you can look for a repair kit with the needed parts and tools that you need to fix it. You have to check the hardware and tools included in the kit so you’ll know if it has what you need for the repair.

The brake booster repair kit may cost anywhere between 45USD and 165USD. You can find better prices if you shop around and compare. Some sellers offer to match the prices from other stores or can give you discounts through coupons, promos, and other deals.

How to Remove the Old Brake Booster and Use the Brake Booster Repair Kit

The brake booster makes it easier to press on the pedal to slow down or stop the vehicle with least trouble. When the booster fails, the pedal becomes hard to push. The brakes may still work, but it takes a while or a much longer distance before the vehicle can be brought to a halt or slowed down. Good thing the booster can still be fixed. All you need is a brake booster repair kit that’s specially designed for the type of booster in your vehicle. Once you have this kit, here are the steps to remove and fix the broken booster.

Difficulty level: Easy to Moderate

Things you’ll need:

  • Nose pliers
  • Slip joint pliers
  • Ratchet and socket
  • Ratchet extension
  • Wrench
  • Brake booster repair kit

Step 1: Look for the booster rod that’s connected to the brake pedal. Use the vehicle manual as a guide.

Step 2: Take out the cotter pin using nose pliers. This pin links the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal.

Step 3: Set free the push rod pin from the brake pedal. After releasing the pin, the push rod must slide off the brake pedal.

Step 4: Use a ratchet, socket, and ratchet extension for unscrewing the mounting nuts from the brake booster studs. The booster studs should extend through the firewall, near the brake pedal in front of it.

Step 5: Disengage the vacuum hose from the brake booster using slip joint pliers.

Step 6: Undo the nuts that secure the brake master cylinder to the brake booster using a wrench or ratchet and socket.

Step 7: Detach the brake master cylinder from the booster and make way for removing the booster.

Step 8: Take out the brake booster from the firewall and from the vehicle.

Step 9: Check the brake booster. Look for damaged or missing hardware such as nuts and bolts.

Step 10: Fix the broken booster using the brake booster repair kit. Use the replacement parts from the kit such as the seals, bolts, nuts, and other hardware, depending on the damage.

Step 11: Reinstall the repaired brake booster.

What boosters؟

What do boosters actually do?

What types of Boosters are there?

What is a Hydrovac booster?

Then what are Mastervacs?

What is the significance of this change of design to us?

Are the Brake Doctors familiar with all boosters?

Are all boosters repairable?

Are all boosters tested after restoration?

What is the likely cost of restoration?

Can you supply repair kits so I can overhaul my own booster?

Why do your prefer not to supply repair kits?:

I’m not sure if my booster is working properly. How can I test it?

What are the most common faults with brake boosters?

Do you offer a guarantee on Power Brakes products and brake boosters?

How to Repair a Brake Booster

How to Repair a Brake Booster

Brake boosters are vacuum-powered vehicle elements that increases brake pressure in accordance with pedal action.

If your vehicle brakes are doing less with more foot pressure on pedal, you might have a bad brake booster. Here are some repair tips.

Vacuum boosters require three basic tests:

Vacuum boosters require three basic tests:

Booster Function Test: Check pedal feel and vacuum booster function while test-driving the vehicle. With the engine off, apply the brake pedal repeatedly with medium pressure until the booster reserve is depleted. At least two brake applications should have a power-assisted feel before the pedal hardens noticeably. If the pedal feels hard immediately, or after only one brake application, it may indicate a vacuum leak or a low level of engine vacuum. Inspect the vacuum hose to the booster for kinks, cracks or other damage. Check vacuum at idle with a vacuum gauge. %مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر %مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر To test booster function once the reserve is depleted, hold moderate pressure on the brake pedal and start the engine. If the booster is working properly, the pedal will drop slightly.

Booster Vacuum Supply Test: With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal to deplete the booster reserve. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the booster and connect a vacuum gauge to the hose using a cone-shaped adapter. Start the engine and allow it to idle while observing the vacuum gauge. Although the amount of vacuum will vary by application, most will register between 15 inHg and 20 inHg (50 kPa and 70 kPa) at idle. Disconnect the vacuum booster supply hose and check for source vacuum with a gauge. If the reading is low, check to see if the vacuum hose is kinked, clogged or cracked. If the hose is not at fault, suspect an engine mechanical problem such as leaky valves, worn rings, an intake manifold vacuum leak, improper cam timing, etc.

Vacuum Inlet Check Valve Test: To test the vacuum check valve, disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the intake manifold or vacuum pump, and blow into the hose. If air passes through the valve into the booster, the check valve is defective and should be replaced.

Hydro-Boost Power Assist Service

The hydro-boost power assist system performs the same function as the vacuum assist system in helping apply a vehicle’s brakes. The difference is that the hydro-boost system uses hydraulic pressure instead of vacuum to provide power assist for the brake system. By using hydraulic pressure, a greater amount of assist can be provided. The hydro-boost uses pressure from the power steering pump to provide braking boost, and includes a high-pressure accumulator that has enough capacity to provide several power-assisted stops in the event that the power steering pump belt breaks or a hose ruptures. When inspecting the hydro-boost system, the inspection must include checking power steering hoses and pump for leaks, power steering fluid level, and drive belt tension. Hydro-boost operation and accumulator performance must also be tested.

Hydro-Boost Function Test: With the engine off, apply the brake pedal five or more times with medium force to discharge the accumulator. The pedal feel will harden noticeably. Next, apply the brake pedal with medium force and then start the engine. If the booster is working properly, the pedal will drop toward the floor and then push back upward slightly. If the booster passes this test, perform the accumulator test as described in the following section. However, if there is no change in the pedal position or feel, the booster is not working. Check the power steering system to determine whether the problem is in the pump or the booster.

%مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر %مرکز تخصصی تعمیرات پمپ وکیوم و بلوئر

Hydro-Boost Accumulator

Similar to the vacuum booster, the hydro-boost is equipped with a backup or reserve in case the source of pressurized fluid is lost. In the event of a loss of pressurized fluid, the accumulator will provide two to three power-assisted stops. Upon the first application of the brakes after an engine stall or loss of power steering, you would find approximately 60% to 75% of the normal assist available. If you were to release and apply the brakes again, you would find approximately 30% to 40% assist, then again approximately 10% to 20% until you depleted all stored reserve assist. Once you have depleted all of the stored pressure, the brakes will no longer have power assist and will be manual in their operation.

Hydro-Boost Accumulator Test: To test the ability of the system to store a short-term high-pressure charge in the accumulator, start the engine and allow it to idle. Charge the accumulator by turning the steering wheel slowly one time from lock to lock. Do not hold the steering at full lock for more than five seconds. Switch the engine off, release the steering wheel, and repeatedly apply the brake pedal with medium force. If the accumulator can hold a charge, a Hydro-Boost I unit will provide two or three power-assisted applications, while a Hydro-Boost II unit will only provide one or two.

To test the ability of the system to store a long-term charge, start the engine and recharge the accumulator as described previously. As the accumulator charges on a Hydro-Boost I system, a slight hissing sound should be heard as fluid rushes through the accumulator-charging orifice. Once the accumulator is charged, switch the engine off and do not apply the pedal for one hour. At the end of the hour, repeatedly apply the brake pedal with medium force.

If the hydro-boost unit fails these tests, it usually means the accumulator of a Hydro-Boost I unit, or the accumulator/power-piston assembly of a Hydro-Boost II unit, is leaking. In either case, the booster must be rebuilt or replaced. However, if a Hydro-Boost I system fails the test but does not make the hissing sound to indicate the accumulator is charging, the fluid in the system is probably contaminated. Simply flushing the hydro-boost system may cure the problem.

Never begin any work on a hydro-boost system until you have discharged the dangerously high pressure stored in the accumulator by pumping the brake pedal numerous times with the engine off.

۴Steps to Repairing a Brake Booster

۴ Steps to Repairing a Brake Booster

A brake booster is simply a vacuum booster. It uses the power derived from your car’s vacuum system to boost the pressure applied to the brakes. The braking system depends on the valve in the booster. Repairing this device, therefore, requires preliminary checks and replacement of a malfunctioning vacuum booster valve. It is only after this that you can confirm the status of your booster.

You need to gather some tools and materials before you start. The tools and materials needed are:

  • Wrenches of different sizes
  • Screwdrivers
  • New check valve

You can now proceed in replacing the check valve as itemized below:

Step 1: Initial Verification Checks

Carrying out verification checks on your brake booster involves 4 simple steps:

  • Switch off the engine.
  • Pump the brake pedal until you have completely bled out the all of the fluid in the system.
  • Keep  the brake  pedal  depressed while you start the engine at the same time
  • Keep the pedal only slightly compressed after you start the engine. This confirms a refill of the fluid that is only possible if the vacuum system is intact.

If the refill fails to occur, check your hose and replace if it is faulty. If the brake hose is intact then, unfortunately, your vacuum system is faulty. This means that your brake booster is out of order and needs immediate replacement. Before replacing the entire booster, however, first check the status of your check valve.

Step 2: Check Valve Replacement

  • Look for the place where the vacuum line connects to the brake booster. The check valve is likely to be located here.
  • Identify the clamps holding the valve line to the check valve
  • Remove the clamps and take out the valve line
  • Remove the check valve, using either a wrench or an appropriate-sized screwdriver
  • Install  the new check valve in the proper location on the booster and reattach the vacuum hose
  • Restart the engine and check for a restoration of brake pressure

If the pressure is right, you are done.  If not, your booster is faulty. Proceed to replace the booster as follows:

Step 3: Brake Booster Replacement

  • Locate the break booster behind the firewall of the brake master cylinder
  • Identify the restraining clamps
  • Loosen the clamp/s  and disconnect  the vacuum line
  • Separate the master cylinder from the booster by loosening  the bolts using the appropriate wrenches
  • Disconnect and remove any brake pedal restraining bolts to completely free the damaged booster
  • Position the new brake booster behind the firewall of the master  cylinder
  • Reposition and tighten all nuts previously removed to secure the newly installed booster
  • Slide the rubber hose over the fitting
  • Reconnect the vacuum line to the booster

Step 4: Safety Tips and Final Checks

It is possible to damage the brake lines while trying to separate the damaged booster from the master cylinder. This happens because the brake lines are directly attached to the master cylinder. To prevent this occurrence, therefore, you must avoid any pressure on the brake line while attempting to separate the booster from the master cylinder.

Finally, always remember to use appropriate clothing and eye protection.